Product Description:
Name: 3D Printing Lost Wax Casting Photosensitive Resin
Model: 801
Color: Blue
Packaging: Bottled
Specifications: 500g/1000g
Introduction:
Suitable for printing and casting large-scale industrial models and high-precision parts, such as wax models for jewelry, wax crowns for dentistry, and wax models for underwires.
Compatible Printers:
LCD 3D printers and DLP 3D printers with an LED light source wavelength of 385nm-405nm.
Product Features:
801# Lost Wax Casting Photosensitive Resin is a low-expansion blue casting resin with a 50% wax content, complete combustion, and zero ash content.
It supports various paraffin wax casting conditions and is compatible with high-quality gypsum, achieving superior results when casting jewelry using gypsum.
Thanks to the addition of a special curing agent, 801# Photosensitive Resin exhibits excellent hardness and rigidity, enabling the printing of ultra-fine filigree jewelry.
Technical Parameters:
Test Items Test Results
Viscosity 150-220 cps @ 25°C
Critical Exposure Energy 8.9-9.5 mJ/cm²
Tensile Strength 36-52 MPa
Tensile Modulus 1,500-1,800 MPa
Elongation at Break 4-8%
Heat Deflection Temperature 50°C
Shore Hardness 78D
Note: Actual values may vary depending on part geometry, print settings, temperature variations, and post-curing. Therefore, users must test the product before use to ensure it meets their end-use performance requirements. These values are typical and are not considered binding material specifications or guarantees unless expressly agreed to in writing. Final results will depend on actual user experience; this table is for reference only.
Instructions:
01 Printing
Before Use: Shake the liquid resin well before use. Wear gloves when cleaning the resin tank and build platform, ensuring the bottom of the tank is transparent to light.
During use: Pour 801 resin into the 3D printer’s resin tank, then load the jewelry model into the 3D printer for printing.
After use: Please use the included tools for post-processing, including a blade, diagonal pliers, tweezers, a container, gloves, and ethanol (≥95%).
02. Washing
Remove the printed model from the build platform and soak it in IPA (isopropyl alcohol) or 95% ethanol to remove excess resin. If necessary, use an ultrasonic cleaner. Note: Never place IPA or ethanol directly into the ultrasonic cleaner’s tank.
03. Support Removal
Manually break off or use pliers to cut support structures from the printed model. Using pliers, cut the supports as close to the model surface as possible. Be careful not to scratch the model itself, as this will cause spots that are difficult to remove during sanding.
04. Post-Curing
For post-curing, the curing energy and curing time depend on the post-curing unit. For example, good surface hardness can be achieved using a 36W (12W CCFL + 24W LED) 405nm UV curing chamber or a Formlabs FormCure curing chamber at 405nm at 60°C for 15 minutes.
05 Polishing
Use polishing paper or a polishing wheel to polish the surface. Do not use paraffin wax for final polishing after sanding.
06 Precision Lost Wax Casting Method for Jewelry:
①. When printing models, keep the wall thickness as thin as possible, not too thick.
②. We recommend using SRS\Hunter brand 3D casting plaster powder from the United States.
③. The printed model must be cleaned thoroughly and subjected to a secondary curing process. Ensure the surface of the model is dry and non-sticky so that it will not stick to the inner wall of the plaster mold after embedding with plaster.
④. After embedding the model with plaster, allow it to stand for 24 hours. Wait until the plaster is completely dry and free of moisture before calcining. Directly sintering a wet plaster mold can cause cracking. ⑤. Heat the muffle furnace to 500-600°C, then place the plaster mold in the mold. Heat to 780-850°C and hold for 2-4 hours. (It is recommended to sinter the front of the mold for 1-2 hours, then flip it upside down and sinter it for another 1-2 hours to ensure a more even and clean sintering of the wax mold.)
⑥. After sintering is complete, remove the plaster mold and use a high-pressure air gun to blow away any impurities remaining in the mold cavity. Then, vacuum any remaining impurities. Finally, pour in the molten metal to be cast.
